A New Approach to Salicylic Acid: Redefining Gentle Exfoliation

Salicylic acid serums are a skincare staple—but today, we're exploring how modern formulation technology can make them even more effective.

Multi-Acid Blending System

2% Supramolecular Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid has a long history of medical use, dating back to the first century AD, when willow bark was used to treat corns and calluses.

More than a century ago, scientists isolated crude salicylic acid and its derivatives from willow bark. After industrial purification, its powerful effects gained widespread clinical use. 

Because it is oil-soluble, salicylic acid readily penetrates pores and dissolves excess sebum, making it highly effective at clearing comedones and loosening keratin—a property many alpha hydroxy acids lack. Clinically, it's widely used to promote skin cell turnover and barrier recovery.

Salicylic acid also reduces sebum production, offering excellent oil control, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial benefits—ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.

However, its ability to penetrate the skin can also increase the risk of irritation. To achieve sustained release and reduce irritation, supramolecular salicylic acid is better suited for facial use.

What is supramolecular technology? It's a stable molecular system formed by two or more materials through intermolecular interactions, creating a specific structure and function.

In this formulation, the binding partner is betaine.

Betaine (trimethylglycine) acts as the binding partner in this formulation. Its two oxygen atoms act as hydrogen bond acceptors, while the phenol group and carboxyl group on salicylic acid form two hydrogen bonds.

The remaining atoms are held together by π–π stacking, building a stable 3D structure—resulting in the salicylic acid–betaine supramolecular co-crystal.

The assembled salicylic acid supramolecular co-crystal offers several key advantages:

1. Enhanced absorption and bioavailability—even at low concentrations. Studies suggest that 1% supramolecular salicylic acid can match the efficacy of 5–6% traditional salicylic acid in certain applications.

2. Significantly reduced irritation with a gentler feel. In a properly formulated system, the incidence of intolerance and adverse reactions can be kept between 3–5%—even milder than liposome-encapsulated HPR.

3. Improved solubility and stability in water. Thanks to hydrogen bonding, there's no need for added alcohol to boost solubility.

0.5% ACNESIUM

ACNESIUM is SILAB's flagship oil-control ingredient. When applied to the scalp, it combats dandruff and reduces sebum production, while also effectively inhibiting the growth of harmful microorganisms on the scalp.

Controlling Oil Production

Clinical trials have shown that continuous use of 0.5% ACNESIUM can significantly reduce the levels of facial fatty acids.

Improves Skin Hyperkeratosis

At 0.010%, ACNESIUM restores the thickness of the hyperkeratotic stratum corneum to normal by reducing the synthesis of keratins 5 and 16.

Inhibiting Inflammation

Inflammation can both contribute to excess oil production and result from underlying skin concerns. Either way, elevated inflammatory mediators can trigger a cascade of skin problems.

Inhibiting Harmful Bacteria

At a test concentration of 0.01%, ACNESIUM inhibits the secretion of inflammatory mediators CCL5, CCL20, and CXCL1 by up to 100%, 78%, and 94%, respectively.

At 0.010%, ACNESIUM significantly prevents Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) biofilm formation by interfering with bacterial communication.

2% Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is a gentle alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). In addition to exfoliating and promoting cell renewal, consistent use can also brighten the complexion.

Some studies suggest that combining salicylic acid with mandelic acid may help improve acne and hyperpigmentation and be particularly beneficial for comedones, acne scars, and breakouts.

Working synergistically, this AHA/BHA combination reduces the number of comedones after several months of use.

1% Black Willow Bark Extract

In addition to the benefits of salicylic acid and its derivatives, willow bark extract has traditionally been used for its anti-inflammatory properties and is also valued for its antioxidant activity in skincare.

One study found that black willow bark extract has strong scavenging activity against free radicals like superoxide, hypochlorous acid, and hydrogen peroxide, while also inhibiting lipid peroxidation — helping to reduce oxidative stress on the skin from environmental triggers.

Soothing & Repairing

Inulin, α-Glucan Oligosaccharides, β-Glucan

Inulin, α-Glucan Oligosaccharides, and β-Glucan help retain moisture, reducing immediate acid-induced irritation while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss.

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella Asiatica extract contains asiatic acid, madecassic acid, asiaticoside, and madecassoside. It helps reduce inflammatory mediators (e.g., histamine, leukotrienes), promote wound healing, and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier.

Summary

To wrap up, here's what makes this formula stand out:

1. A synergistic blend of four acids – delivering comprehensive, multi-target oil control.

2. Prebiotics plus soothing actives – helping keep acne-causing bacteria in check while supporting a healthy skin microbiome.

3. Suitable for oily and acne-prone skin – from teenagers to adults.

4. Gentle on dry and sensitive skin – lightweight, hydrating, and non-greasy.

Wishing you healthier, smoother-looking skin every step of your skincare journey!